Eternal Rome: the Colosseum, the Vatican and trattorias
Photo by David Köhler · unsplash.com
Rome, the Eternal City, is a metropolis where three thousand years of history live alongside vibrant modern life. Founded in 753 BC, Rome was the heart of the Roman Empire, the seat of the papacy and the cradle of Renaissance art. Today it holds the highest concentration of historical, artistic and gastronomic heritage in the world.
🌤️ Best time to visit
Spring (April-June) and autumn (September-October) are ideal, with temperatures of 18-26 degrees C and smaller crowds. Summer is hot and muggy (35+ degrees C) but less frequented by Romans. Winter (December-February) offers lower prices and almost no queues at the museums.
✈️ How to arrive
FLIGHTS: Fiumicino (FCO), the main airport, is 35 km from the centre. Leonardo Express every 15 min (35 min, 14 euro). Ciampino (CIA) for low-cost flights, 15 km from the centre, reachable by shuttle (40-60 min, 6-7 euro). TRAINS: Roma Termini is the main hub with high speed from Milan (3h), Florence (1h30), Naples (1h10). CAR: A1 motorway from the north (Milan/Florence) and the south (Naples). The GRA is the ring road around the city.
🚇 How to get around
METRO: 3 lines (A, B/B1, C). Line A for the main tourist sites (Spagna, Barberini, Repubblica). Line B for the Colosseum. Single ticket 1.50 euro (100 min). BUS: Extensive ATAC network, including night buses. TAXI: Fixed fares from the airport (Fiumicino 48-52 euro, Ciampino 30-36 euro). Apps: inTaxi, itTaxi. ON FOOT: The historic centre is great to explore on foot - the main attractions are within a 30-minute walk of each other.
🏛️ Main attractions
Colosseum
The largest amphitheatre of the ancient world (70-80 AD), holding 50,000-80,000 spectators. The scene of gladiators and public spectacles for centuries.
Buy tickets online 2-3 weeks in advance in high season. The ticket includes the Roman Forum and Palatine. Visit at opening (9:00) or in the late afternoon. Consider the underground or arena floor tour.
Roman Forum and Palatine
The heart of the political and commercial life of ancient Rome. The Palatine, the most famous of the 7 hills, holds the remains of the imperial palaces with panoramic views.
Included in the Colosseum ticket. Bring water and a hat in summer. The route takes 2-3 hours. Exit on the Palatine for stunning views.
Vatican and Sistine Chapel
The smallest state in the world: St Peter's Basilica, the Vatican Museums with Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel, the Pieta and Bernini's baldachin.
Book the Vatican Museums online, mandatory in high season. Appropriate dress required. On Wednesdays you can attend the papal audience in St Peter's Square (free).
Trevi Fountain
The most famous fountain in the world (1762, Nicola Salvi), the end point of the Aqua Virgo. By tradition, tossing a coin guarantees your return to Rome.
Visit at night or at dawn to avoid the crowds. The fountain is lit and especially striking after sunset.
Pantheon
The best-preserved Roman temple in the world (118-128 AD), with its open-oculus dome 43 m in diameter. The tomb of Raphael and of the kings of Italy.
Paid entry (5 euro). Visit early in the morning, preferably Tuesday or Thursday. The rain falling through the oculus is a unique experience.
Piazza Navona
Built on the footprint of the Stadium of Domitian (1st century AD), it is one of the most beautiful baroque squares in Europe. At its centre is Bernini's Fountain of the Four Rivers (1651).
The restaurants on the square are expensive and mediocre. Get a gelato and enjoy the atmosphere sitting down. In December it hosts a characteristic Christmas market.
🍝 Typical cuisine
CACIO E PEPE: Pasta (tonnarelli or spaghetti) with pecorino romano and black pepper. Absolute simplicity, intense flavour. CARBONARA: Spaghetti with eggs, pecorino, guanciale and pepper - never cream! AMATRICIANA: Pasta with tomato, guanciale and pecorino. SUPPLI: Fried rice croquettes with ragu and stringy mozzarella, the quintessential Roman street food. CARCIOFI ALLA ROMANA: Artichokes with mint and garlic, typical of winter. PIZZA IN TEGLIA: Soft, by the slice, topped in a thousand ways.
🍽️ Recommended restaurants
DA ENZO AL 29 (Trastevere): Historic trattoria, book ahead. ROSCIOLI SALUMERIA: Iconic deli-restaurant for cured meats and cheeses. SUPPLI ROMA: For the best suppli in the city (several locations). TONNARELLO (Trastevere): Famous cacio e pepe, fair prices. PIZZARIUM BONCI: The most famous pizza by the slice in Rome, chef Gabriele Bonci.
🏘️ Where to stay
TRASTEVERE: The most romantic, with cobbled lanes, typical trattorias and lively nightlife. HISTORIC CENTRE: In the heart of everything, expensive but very convenient. PRATI: Near the Vatican, quiet, mid-range prices. MONTI: A hipster district between the Roman Forum and Termini, with boutiques and taverns. TESTACCIO: An authentic district, the cradle of traditional Roman cuisine.
🗺️ Nearby day trips
TIVOLI (30 km): Hadrian's Villa and Villa d'Este with its fountain gardens. OSTIA ANTICA (25 km): The ruins of the port of imperial Rome. CASTELLI ROMANI: Lake Albano and Castel Gandolfo. NAPLES and POMPEII (2h30 by train): The most chaotic city in Italy and the excavations. ORVIETO (1h30 by train): A medieval city on tufa with a splendid cathedral.
💡 Practical tips
WATER: The nasoni (public cast-iron fountains) provide free drinking water. CLOTHING: Comfortable shoes for the uneven cobblestones. HOURS: Many shops close for lunch (13-16). Museums often close on Mondays. SAFETY: Beware of pickpockets in tourist areas and on buses. ROMA PASS: A card that includes transport and museums, worthwhile for 2+ days.