Lisbon of the seven hills: trams, fado and miradouros
Photo by Tom Byrom · unsplash.com
Europe's westernmost capital wins you over with its seven hills, the yellow trams, the houses clad in azulejos, the melancholic fado and excellent seafood. Belem with its Tower and the Pasteis de Nata is unmissable.
🌤️ Best time to visit
March-May and September-October. Summer is sunny (25-30 degrees C) but less hot than southern Spain.
✈️ How to arrive
Humberto Delgado airport (LIS) 7 km away with metro (20 min, 1.75 euro) or taxi (15 euro). International trains from Madrid (9h15, but flying is convenient).
🚇 How to get around
Tram 28 (iconic but crowded), Metro (4 lines), Carris buses. Lisbon is hilly - some uphill routes require the public lifts/elevadors.
🏛️ Main attractions
Belem: Tower and Jeronimos Monastery
The Belem Tower (1519) and the Jeronimos Monastery (16th century) are masterpieces of Manueline Gothic, a UNESCO site.
Book online. The monastery is closed on Monday. The Padrao dos Descobrimentos (Monument to the Discoveries) is nearby.
Alfama and Fado
The oldest district of Lisbon, with the Castelo de Sao Jorge, the stone alleys and the houses where fado was born.
Attend an evening of authentic fado in an Alfama tavern (avoid the touristy shows in the big halls). The Miradouro da Graca has the most beautiful view at sunset.
Mercado da Ribeira (Time Out Market)
The historic market (1892) converted into a food hub with the best chefs in Lisbon.
Great for a varied lunch. Open from 10 to midnight. Prefer weekdays for fewer crowds.
🍝 Typical cuisine
Bacalhau (cod in 365 different recipes), Pasteis de Nata (custard tarts), Bifanas (marinated pork sandwich), Caldo Verde (cabbage soup), Francesinha (grilled sandwich typical of Porto).
🍽️ Recommended restaurants
Cervejaria Ramiro: the best seafood in Lisbon. Tasca do Chico: authentic fado and home cooking. Solar dos Presuntos: classic Portuguese cuisine since 1976.
🏘️ Where to stay
Alfama: historic and romantic. Bairro Alto: nightlife and bars. LX Factory: a former factory with markets and restaurants. Chiado: elegant and cultural.
🗺️ Nearby day trips
Sintra (40 min by train): the romantic palaces in the forest. Cascais (40 min by train): the chic seaside town. Obidos (1h by bus): the medieval village with intact walls.
💡 Practical tips
Tram 28 is expensive and packed with tourists - prefer the 12E for the same route, more smoothly. The Pasteis de Belem (Rua de Belem) are the most famous but the queue is long. Lisbon is the European capital of surfing - Cascais and Peniche are within reach.